June 26, 2008

I don’t know how to surf very well, but I love it. I love being in the ocean with a big piece of foam. Granted it’s more painful than I thought it would be, that board is as unforgiving as the ocean.  It’s also more difficult than I expected; Skateboarding doesn’t translate to wave riding incase you were under that impression.  I feel like an infant out there awkwardly struggling against ankle-slapping waves, like a newb.  I don’t look cool, that’s for sure.

            But surfing is about something else I think.  Maybe something spiritual, maybe not; but something good.  It feels (buzz word) “organic”, like connecting with the earth in an experience both horrific and serene.  Being at the whim of the ocean, immersed in an entity incomprehensibly larger than myself, is a feeling I apparently enjoy.

            I haven’t been in years.  While I was living on the Mercy Ship we met some friends who had a house almost directly on the beach and we would crash at their place and hit the water early.  Watching the sunrise from a surfboard is pretty good stuff;  the vastness of the sky from the vastness of the ocean.  I’d like to go again sometime, with a bit of practice I bet I could look pretty cool out there.


2 Responses to “wwssssssshhhhh”

  1. janessica Says:

    Your title made me laugh. Right out loud. And then I coughed for about 12 minutes, but that’s beside the point. I like that you pointed out that organic is a buzz word. What’s the deal with everyone saying that anyway? I have nothing beneficial to add about the surfing part. I’ve never been, it sounds painful, and I’m pretty sure I have no desire to go. Ever. We don’t even make sense.

  2. Josh R Says:

    people use words to describe things, but then so many people start using the word we like that it becomes a “buzz” word or cliche and then we preface things with phrases like “i know everyone uses this word” or “i hate sounding like everyone else but…” what i am saying is if organic is the word that makes sense then use organic. We all have to use words and if the become over used, but it still fits, who cares
    and i would love to go surfing

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